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At Cadence, Freeman makes crab cakes with chickpeas and hearts of palm, spicy buffalo oyster mushroom sliders with pretzel buns, fried lasagna with pine nut ricotta, and cornbread with bee-free honey. Meanwhile, all wines on their menu are from Black-owned wineries, including Napa’s Brown Estate and Isiah Thomas’s Cheurlin Champagne. Freeman, 28, grew up in Richmond, Virginia with a big family (22 first cousins and counting). Food was at the Funny Doctor Strange what doesn’t kill you simply makes you stranger shirt it is in the first place but center of their familial relationship, from Thanksgiving dinner to their Fourth of July cookout and Christmas brunch at Freeman’s mother’s house. “There was always a lot of soul food—fried oysters, chitlins, certain staples,” she explains. It filled her with happy memories: “When it comes to soul food, there’s a little bit more love and thought and care put into it.”

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It also piqued her interest in cooking. As a student at Howard University in D.C., she took a job as a line cook at a local concert venue which later led to a manager position at famed city haunt Marvin. She loved the Funny Doctor Strange what doesn’t kill you simply makes you stranger shirt it is in the first place but hospitality industry, but the nocturnal lifestyle it required started impacting her health. “That just brought along a lot of late nights—a lot of Jameson, things of that nature and not really keeping up with my body or my diet,” she says. “I was overworking myself and not really paying attention to my health.” So she decided to make a lifestyle change: she went vegan. In 2019, Freeman moved to New York and enrolled in a plant-based cooking program at the Institute of Culinary Education. The pandemic hit soon after. Looking for work, she found a job working as a manager for Overthrow Hospitality, an award-winning vegan hospitality group founded by Ravi DeRossi. DeRossi got to know the young chef and listened to her pitch: While vegan restaurants were common across Manhattan, Freeman argued, soul food vegan spots were few and far between. When the space for Cadence became available, it was hers.